Whatever you think about the Jersey shore is wrong. Especially if you are in Asbury Park. It is the shore, so it does include the ocean, some sand, and a boardwalk. I was under the impression that Asbury Park also included an arcade, some rides, maybe some people. Straightfoward. Typical.
Nope. Instead we were constantly disoriented by the vicious transitions between desolated ruins in sight of gaudy mansions, punctuated by a planned Christian community, and surrounded by the strip malls of Jersey. It was a big plate of awesome, with a whopping side of awful.
We stayed in Ocean Grove, a neighborhood that borders Asbury Park on the South, and which began as a Methodist retreat. It still serves a Christian audience. The praise concerts went on for most of the day on Sunday. General sensibility of the town: Midwest or Southern evangelical. Not Jersey shore.
Driving up to visit our friends (who stayed in a town 10 minutes up the coast), we passed mansion after mansion, with driveways populated by H2's, Porsches, and Beemers. The houses were behemoths: italian collonades, turrets, Tudor style houses in Texas style sizes. None of them said "I am at the beach." Mostly they said "I cost more than you can even imagine." I wondered what it would be like to grow up with a mansion as a beach house. Somehow that seems wrong.
Asbury Park itself: incredibly sad. Earlier this century it was a thriving leisure community. Yesterday, it looked totally abandoned. A few people on the boardwalk, braving the rain. The shops were shuttered. The boardwalk was bookended by ruins; on one end, the Paramount theater (which is a working venue, but seemed desolate and forlorn), and on the other, the Asbury Casino (which is actually a ruin: roof collapsed, windowpanes missing, entrances boarded). The neighborhood, if it can be called that, looked totally blighted. The streets were torn up, the lots were either bare earth, dilapidated buildings, or cheap bars (hanging on to a frayed thread of credibility stemming from the Springsteen era).
Asbury Park sat squarely between our nicey-nice Christian planned community on the south and the gauntlet of mansions to the north. Passing through all three neighborhoods on 71 and Ocean Drive made it impossible to nail down the Jersey Shore with any one characterization. So, we ignored that mental quicksand and played spades on the porch, ate burgers on the boardwalk, and watched Talladega Nights at the mall. Fantastic way to spend the day at the Jersey shore. Go Asbury Park!